Colonia, Uruguay

You know those moments that feel perfect?  Those places that make you feel so safe?  That's Colonia for me.   Maybe it's that I've finally been able to decompress from the past four months, or maybe this place just is magical.   Whatever way you want to explain it, the fact remains that for some reason this place is Zihutanajo and Palm Springs wrapped up into one country sized package.  I slept under a willow tree for hours on the beach today, then wandered the cobblestone streets of the old city to visit the most interesting looking restaurants so that I could sit for an hour and drink or eat or both.  I tracked birds' flight patterns and tasted a multitude of Uruguay's finest Tannas (wines) and somehow, almost the whole time, was spent following the Rio de la Plata.  If the hotels hadn't been booked I may have checked in and never left.  This place is so chill I don't think it would ever force me out.  But instead, I'm sitting here at the lovely Charco bistro, watching birds, drinking rose waiting for my ship to come in.  Tomorrow it's back to Buenos Aires, which is lovely in its own right but not quite the same thing.  

 

The cobblestone historical part of Colonia is filled with old cars, many of which have been upcycled and turned into planters, nonetheless they help to create a lovely "old-school" vibe throughout the city.

The cobblestone historical part of Colonia is filled with old cars, many of which have been upcycled and turned into planters, nonetheless they help to create a lovely "old-school" vibe throughout the city.

Colonia sits on the Rio de la Plata, an hour via ferry from Buenos Aires.  The beaches are perfectly lovely, with lots of shade for napping.

Buenos Aires - Day 1

So, not taking the time to plan ahead may have not worked so well in my favor.  The plan in my head was to head to Uruguay the day after I arrived in Argentina.  Unfortunately the universe had other plans.  
All of the hotels in Colonia where I had decided to stay (on the plane) were booked.  And Montevideo didn't look that awesome...Punta Del Esta seemed great on paper, but seasoned travelers had all said it was very "meh."  So I decided to make Buenos Aires my home base and checked into the the Savoy...I figured if it was historically good enough for Eva Peron and Einstein, well it must be good enough for me.  Then off I went on a self-guided walking tour in order to get my bearings.  I found myself in the Recoleta neighborhood and near Evita's grave, (which is rather humble considering its surroundings).   Then off to the Belles Artes museum (which was wonderful and free!) then past the giant silver blossoming flower (it opens and closes with solar energy), over to the Plaza de Mayor...where I saw the Casa Rosada AND joined in on a lively protest...from there I wandered to the San Telmo neighborhood to hunt down the Mafalda sculpture, interesting markets and some cool graffiti (randomly, I wandered into an old library that had been converted into a theater and was invited to watch rehearsals...if only I better understood what they were saying). Then shopping at the central market for dinner and back home via the subway...all in all I walked over 10miles and still managed to swing by the grocer on my way home for a bottle of Malbec from a Mendoza farm.  I'm hoping tomorrow I'll make it to Uruguay for the day at least...but if not, I am quite happy watching the city from my balcony and wandering old neighborhoods.   

Eva Peron's grave site

Floralis Generica, the aluminum flower sculpture that "blooms" daily in Buenos Aires.

Mafalda is the most famous cartoon character in Argentina.  She's 6 years old and through her lens, she reflects on the politics of the middle class and youth empowerment in Argentina.

Even covered in graffiti, I love the bones of this old building so much.

A fruit stand found in one of San Telmo's markets.  

San Telmo has many antique and junk shops along with fun art galleries.  Since so many tourists flood the cobblestone streets in this area, there are also musicians everywhere playing tango, and occasionally dance performances.  Over the weekend, this area closes down for a giant street market, with artisans and more junk/antiques.  

A lively protest broke out against the government in front of the Casa Rosada.  People were dancing and singing and children were playing drums, if it weren't so serious it would almost seem like a party.

The Journey Begins - Los Angeles to Buenos Aires

The flight from LAX to Buenos Aires was long and peppered with a few too many layovers.  But a breakfast of a solid cafe con leche and medianoche from the Cuban restaurant at the Miami airport combined with a nearly empty flight to South America definitely worked as perfect salves for what could be a long and painful start to an adventure. I believe the journey is the true destination of the overall adventure, and this trip is no exception, the only hotel I have booked for the next week is for tonight and that's only because I land in BA at 9:30pm.   The rest of the week is up in the air.  I've been planning this trip for almost a full year, yet other than a trekking adventure in Patagonia and the Antarctic cruise, I hadn't bothered with the actual details.  Sure I have solid professional excuses: I was producing an indie film right up to the moment I left, I was producing events for my company a week before I left, and I was hustling work for the new year the day before I left...all of which are true but holy cow, I can't believe I made it to the airport fully packed with no idea where I'd be for the next 5 days.   Ok confession, I totally ran out of time and had to read all my paperwork, tour guide books and learn how to use my new camera on the plane... after a very solid four hour nap, that is (I was so knackered from all those last minute jobs).  So now, here I am in Buenos Aires and tomorrow I'll figure out where I'm going next.  Yay!  Adventure!

If I have to do an early morning layover, Miami is my favorite place to do it.  Just for the Cuban coffee....and the potato balls, oh and the pastries.  I love the pastries.

I don't know why I find the term "Handies" funny, but I do.  Which is why I took this photo while waiting in line for Passport Control in BA.

Three Week Road Trip in Southern Florida

This two year old alligator was so sweet, I wanted to bring her home, but where would I put her?

Places visited:  Sarasota, Weeki Wachee State Park, Miami, Everglades National Park, and the Florida Keys (Long Key, Marathon, Islamorada, John Pennekamp State Park and Key West)

Confession: I love DisneyWorld and all the kitschy madness that surrounds it.  But on this trip I intentionally focused on places that I didn't know as well, or at all.  Most of my journey was influenced by the book I was reading, Swamplandia!  A tale that takes place in the Everglades, as seen through the eyes of its 13 year old heroine.  Her stories of tourist traps,  alligator wrestling and swamp people led me to her homeland to hunt down some of the folks who may have inspired the characters in the book.  I sought out Swamp Guides for backwater airboat tours and interviewed alligator wrestlers about how they got started and what inspires them to get in the ring everyday.  I spoke to locals about what it was like to live in the Everglades (the answer, it really just is the life they are used to.)  It was such an amazing adventure to be able to see and understand a small part of the world through someone else's lens.  

 

A few of the legendary Sirens of Weeki Wachee.

The Twistee Treat Ice Cream shaped stand are a totally worthy snack stop.  But I warn you, eat fast, that soft serve ice cream doesn't do well in the Florida humidity.

The Confidante Hotel in Miami Beach was a lovely setting for our Miami adventure.  Close enough to some amazing restaurants (Pao and Nobu), convenient to the beach, and a quick drive to Wynnwood.

I love these mermaids found in the Wynnwood neighborhood of Miami.

Seahorses take on a whole new meaning in Miami.

If I lived in Miami I would be over-caffeinated and suffer from overeating, because I would have to live near Little Havana.  Really couldn't get enough Cuban coffee and food, so yummy.

Fishing buoys and lobster trap art can be found everywhere in the Florida Keys.  

Opal the Unicorn visits the Southernmost point of the United States, where the line to get a solo photo was so long, she decided it was best to forego the queue all together and include a stranger in her selfie.

Sunset from the porch at Pierre's in Islamorada.  If you go to the Keys, you must stop at Pierre's for a cocktail and a delicious meal, you will not be disappointed.