The Dreaded Drake Passage

Here's the thing, I read the book, "Where Did You Go, Bernadette?" by Maria Semple and became extremely aware of the potential for the Drake Passage to be awful.  In fact, I took the book to my doctor and read off the list of medications that Bernadette had gotten for the trip, so that I could be just as prepared as my fictitious counterpart.  Almost every one of the guests on board the ship had a small bit of trepidation towards the possible conditions of the Drake Passage.  A few even asked in murmured tones, "Have you seen the videos on Youtube? Terrifying."   Everyone knew that to survive the Drake Passage is truly a badge of honor.

Lucky for all of us on board, we were met by the "Drake Lake," so calm, I'm unsure anyone really suffered from seasickness.  Of course, I still wore my Dramamine Patch...which led to some major dozing during lectures about sea conditions, navigation and Antarctic Wildlife, which was a shame because what I was able to listen to I found fascinating.  It took us two days to cross the 600 miles of the passage and somewhere along the line, we saw our first iceberg.  And then we saw our first tabular iceberg, it was about 2 days in around 11pm, we were all slap-happy and so excited, many of us took photos in front of it.  Little did we know, that was the first of so many incredible scenes we would encounter over the next few days.

This photo was taken sometime after 11pm, when we were passing a tabular iceberg.  Since we were heading to Antarctica at the bottom of the southern hemisphere, the sun would kind of set very late every night, and then rise a few hours later.  We never saw a dark night sky, only dusk...so unfortunately, I cannot say what the stars look like in Antarctica.

El Fin Del Mundo - Ushuaia, Argentina

The day has finally come and I was so excited to get going on my voyage to Antarctica, I could hardly sleep!  Well, that and the fact that I was out until 1am, then there was a miscommunication and the front desk started calling my room non-stop at 3am until I yanked the phone out of the wall...which meant they came to my door, but it was easier to sort once the phone stopped ringing.  Anyhow, I managed to leave Buenos Aires on time and did not miss my flight.  Along the way, I even started to make friends with a few of my shipmates.  Before boarding the boat, we had a few hours in Ushuaia, Argentina.  I had a recommendation for a coffeeshop: Ramos Generales, which turned out to be the perfect place to hang out.  Ushuaia is an adorable village, situated between the Beagle Channel and a series of mountains and glaciers, it almost reminds me of a Swiss town.  Very cute and extremely touristy.  And since, I had scheduled a night in Ushuaia after Antarctica, I figured I could explore the town then.  For now, I was happy at a little coffeeshop, where I could do everything possible not to fall asleep....I think all my adventuring (or maybe just a late night) has caught up with me.   

Should you find yourself in Ushuaia, make sure you stop at Ramos Generales, it is a former general store, and has held on to the old school look.  There is a museum of some sort attached, but it was never open while I was there.  Order a submarino: A hot milk drink that comes with a bar of chocolate to melt inside.  They also have cocktail versions of the drink, for when you are ready to graduate to the next level.

When I finally got onboard the ship, I was excited to see that my tiny stateroom wasn't too tiny and was completely livable.  And after a safety briefing, I began to meet some more of my shipmates.  By 11pm we had set sail and it was Goodbye Argentina and Hello Drake Passage.

Ushuaia, Argentina is the Southernmost part of South America, as seen from the Ocean Endeavor, my home for the next 9 days.

Monday in Buenos Aires

By this point I felt like I'd seen everything I needed to in BA.  There were only two things on my list and since I had a private city tour scheduled, I knew it would be easy to get them knocked off.  So after checking out of my lovely hotel near the Congresso, I moved across town to a new swankier pad where I would meet up with my Antarctica group and do all the things my travel agent had kindly scheduled, way back before I knew I'd be spending 4 days in Buenos Aires.   The tour was good and helped fill in some blanks, but my guide was surprised at how much I'd done on my own.   We actually skipped some of the redundancies and instead focused on what I wanted to see...which was La Boca, the colorful artist district near the port.  This was touristy BA at its finest, with tango dancers and musicians playing amongst the trinket sellers and overpriced restaurants.  It was a place I had to see, but couldn't bring myself to do it alone.  Having a guide and a driver meant I could stay as long as I wanted and then leave immediately.   Which meant it was perfect!  

That night I did the other thing on my list, a tango show at the Escuina de Carlos Gardel....which was incredible and I do recommend it as all the performers were on point.

La Boca

The neighborhood is more touristy than the other places I had visited while in Buenos Aires, but I felt it was necessary to check it out.  And sometimes, it's fun to wander through tchotchke shops and watch tango dancers and other street performers in an inauthentic "Argentinian" world.

After watching hours of Tango, I think it's time to find some lessons.  Photos can't capture the beauty and sheer sexiness of the dance.  If you find yourself in Buenos Aires, promise me you will see a show.  

Sunday in Buenos Aires

Since it's Sunday, I've decided to take it easy.  I wandered to San Telmo for the big Sunday market then to Palermo for some breakfast at a cafe then to the Eva Peron museum.  While drinking coffee I discovered an entry in my tour book for Tierra Santa, a tacky religious theme park, where Christ is resurrected every 30 mins.   Well this sounded too amazing to pass up, I had to go.  When I mentioned it to the docent at the Eva Peron museum she told me it was not something I should visit.  I said, "I hear it's weird...I like weird."  She said, "it is weird and also awful."   So I found a driver to get me there.  We showed up at 2pm and apparently it doesn't open until 4....and it's horribly far away from anything except a fishing dock and a water park.  I found a nice restaurant and decided to hang out there.   Gardiner is the type of place that families go for brunch or special occasions.  The waiters are all older men who wear uniforms, like at Musso and Franks, and created a career in restaurant services.  They were also the kindest waiters I had encountered anywhere in BA.  I would recommend this place for the amazing service...but also for the yummy Dulce de leche molten lava cake...scrumptious perfection.   

Now back to Tierra Santa...which had opened and had attracted a line of devout theme park fans.   I'm really not sure what I expected but the $8 entrance fee was worth quelling my curiosity.  Tacky doesn't begin to describe it all.  There was a giant Jesus with light up heart for family photo ops, graphic sculptural representations of the stations of the cross, a faux wailing wall, and belly dancer costumes for sale amongst cheaply made angels and crosses.   And yes, Jesus is resurrected on an hourly bases...I didn't stay for it because the park made me a little depressed and empty feeling.  So I headed back to my hotel to a bottle of wine (you know, Jesus Juice).  Then went out to find a good parrilla (steak) restaurant...because I had earned it.  

The Casa Rosada, where Eva Peron addressed her people....I don't believe she actually sang, "Don't Cry for me Argentina," but Madonna did....which was my main reference for everything Evita, until I went to her museum.   Up the street, about a block away from here you will find  the start of the San Telmo market.

Mate is everywhere in Argentina (in Uruguay too!) and you can purchase a leather, gourd, silicon, pottery or plastic Mate vessel on every block in Buenos Aires.

Tierra Santa's most incredible photo op....Giant Jesus.